| There are surely few golden coins that tell as
compelling a story - steeped in the intrigue of her glamorous yet deeply tragic history -
as those recovered from the wreck of the 'RMS Douro' in July 1996. After two years of arduous research and searching - following the trail of
many others before him - Sverker Hallstrom finally found the elusive wreck. With the help
of his partner, the salvage vessel 'Deep Sea Worker', her precious cargo was lifted up
from a depth of 1, 200 feet below the ocean's surface.
Her glittering treasure, which had rested undisturbed for 114
years on the muddy sea bed, was found to comprise several gold bars and a sizeable
quantity of gold Sovereigns (mostly dating from the reign of Queen Victoria).
The story behind these valuable reminders of a bygone era has
enchanted all who have encountered them, from treasure hunters and historians across the
globe, to collectors and wistful romantics.
The lavishly-fitted 'Douro' was considered the shining star
of the Trans-Atlantic lines right up until her 62nd - and final - voyage between Brazil
and England in 1882.
Owned by the Royal Mail Steam Packet Co., the slender iron
screw steamer - distinguishable by her graceful clipper bow and two brigantine rigged
auxiliary masts - was built in 1865 at the shipyards of Caird and Co. on the River Clyde
in Greenok, Scotland. She measured 326 feet long and 40 feet wide, with a gross tonnage of
2.824 tons.
In July 1869, after servicing the West Indies run, she joined
the exotic South American trade between Southampton and Buenos Aires. Her voyages took her
past Lisbon, Madeira, Sao Vicente, Pernambuco, Bahia and Rio de Janeiro, and were
characterized by elegant company, fine food, music and laughter. Her sheer luxuriousness
was matched by her reputation for reliability and relative speed.
| She accommodated 253 First Class, 30 Second
Class and 30 Third Class passengers, as well as 80 officers and crew. The First Class
cabins were booked well in advance by an esteemed selection of passengers - from diplomats
to the fashionable, champagne-drinking elite who were drawn to her comfort and plushness.
Indeed, she carried such notable passengers as, in 1872, emperor Dom Pedro II of Brazil
and his family, ensuring the 'Douro's' reign as the unrivalled queen of the South
Atlantic. |

PICTURE WITH THANKS TO THE
NATIONAL MARITIME
MUSEUM, LONDON
|
She also carried on her South American run precious cargo the
dream of many a would-be treasure hunter or latter day collector. Her holds were usually
filled with the finest high-value products and goods from both continents and her bullion
room was kept well-stocked with specie, bar gold and Brazilian diamonds. In addition, as a
contract-bound Royal Mail ship, she carried sizeable quantities of newspapers and letters.
Her final Trans-Atlantic journey began smoothly enough on the
return stretch to Southampton. But it will never be known for sure if the hour and a half
delay she suffered on her departure from Lisbon had any bearing on the events that were to
lead to her tragic demise that beautiful night of 1 April 1882.
On 31 March 1882 - after an hour and a half's delay - the
'Douro' finally departed from Lisbon at 20h30, her passengers preparing for yet another
enchanting evening of romantic dining and dancing out at sea. To make up for the lost
time, she sailed full steam ahead, under a fresh force 5 to 6 N-N-E wind, heading swiftly
north off the west coast of Portugal.
A day of sailing followed, and when night fell on April
Fool's Day, she passed Cape Finesterre under a full moon. Although the night was beautiful
and calm, the sea was a little rough.
Most of the passengers were asleep when, at 22h45,
catastrophe struck. Although the Fourth Officer had identified the light of a ship some
two miles in the distance, he had been confident the Chief Officer on the bridge was
keeping watch. But the Chief Officer saw the ship too late to avoid the approaching
collision.
Two deep gashes were gouged in the 'Douro's' starboard side
when the sharp bow of the Spanish steamship Yrurac Bat plunged into her at full speed, and
then again, with the force of the rebound and the regaining momentum of her engines.
Her engines finally stopped, emergency procedures were
immediately begun. What is clear from the many accounts gathered by the 'Douro's'
researchers is that she was abandoned in a great hurry, and priority given to the
well-being of her passengers rather than to saving the valuable contents of her strong
room or safe.
The confused and frightened passengers were rounded up from
their cabins and the ensuing pandemonium on the deck, and directed to the lifeboats amidst
great panic. The women and children were the first to reach safety, followed by the men.
Six passengers drowned, but the survivors were later picked up by the steamer Hidalgo of
Hull, and taken to La Coruna.
She rapidly began to sink as tons of seawater surged through
both gaps and, after a mere 30 minutes, she disappeared below the water to find her final
resting place on the ocean floor. The Yrurac Bat suffered a similar fate, leaving a total
of 59 passengers and crew from both vessels drowned. True to seafaring tradition, the
'Douro's' Captain Ebenezer C.Kemp, four of the Senior Officers, and the Chief and Second
Engineer went down with their ship, together with her dazzling cargo of gold, silver and
jewels.
When the 'Douro' wreck was finally discovered, and her
treasure brought to light for the first time since 1882, many years of fruitless searching
had already been undertaken. However, the last chapter in the saga began in 1993 when
Sverker Hallstrom began with his mission of locating and identifying a number of wrecks in
the probable area where the elusive ship went down. Huge technological advances in deep
sea salvaging equipment meant that the puzzle of the 'Douro's' whereabouts would finally
be resolved - using state of the art sonar and ROV operations.
But it was also Hallstrom's determination to find her -
helped by a liberal degree of pragmatism and an open mind to risk-taking - that resulted
in his eventual triumph.
Hallstrom was introduced to the 'Douro' by the researcher,
Nigel Pickford, in 1991, and received from him a comprehensive file of information
pertaining to the wreck. However, it was up to Hallstrom to do further research in order
to determine a search area. It was obvious to him that his quest for more in-depth
information should include looking to resources in Spain, Portugal and even Brazil. He
managed to find some particularly useful material in La Coruna's "La Boz de
Galicia", a newspaper established a few months prior to the 'Douro's' tragic
collision (and which is still in print today). The publication stated the time that the
'Yrurac Bat' passed Sisargas, information that allowed Hallstrom to narrow down the search
area considerably.
He was also fortunate to befriend some of the local fisherman
in the harbor where his survey vessel - the 'Scorpio' - was anchored, and who imparted
valuable information known to them about the area. Trawler skippers across the world are
deeply familiar with their stretch of sea, and usually have maps showing all the obstacles
where they might come into trouble. With their help, he was able to establish a list (with
precise Decca positions) of all the known wrecks in the area.
One of the fishermen in particular, Francisco, verified the
names - and sometimes the estimated age - of the wrecks that Hallstrom had already picked
up on his sonar. He was also occasionally able to indicate the sizes and vague identities
of some of these wrecks, which Hallstrom found to be most interesting and useful in his
search.
With this information at hand, Hallstrom could begin the
lengthy process of locating each of these wrecks - one after the other. Their
identification would be aided by means of a ROV (Remotely Operated Vehicle - a tethered
robot equipped with video cameras, powerful lights, a manipulator, sector-scanning sonar,
a dredging pump etc). But in spite of this, locating and identifying the 'Douro' would
still prove to be one of the toughest projects of his entire career.
In the meantime, an agreement had been entered into with Deep
Sea Worker (a joint venture between English company Blue Water Recovery and French company
Louis Dreyfus), the operators of a unique drill ship of the same name. 'Deep Sea Worker'
had the advantage of being able to delve into waters deeper than 300 meters, utilising the
tools and technologies developed for the offshore oil drilling industry. Although they
were not involved in the search and identification phase, they would enter the picture
once Hallstrom had positively identified the 'Douro'.
In 1993, Hallstrom began his search off the coast of Cape
Finisterre using his survey ship 'Benjamin', fully equipped with satellite navigation
systems, towed sonars, ROVs and the like.
Many ships have suffered a similar fate to the 'Douro' along
this notorious coast, and it was these Hallstrom encountered over the next two years. He
mistook one such wreck - of about the same period, and in the right location - to be the
'Douro'. In an exciting instance, Hallstrom's ROV had brought the image of a ship's bell
to the screen - thought to be that of the 'Douro'. However, once the bell was recovered
and its grimy surface cleaned, it was clearly a case of mistaken identity. The bell
belonged to the 'Gijon', a ship which had sunk after colliding with the 'Laxham' in 1884.
But rather than experiencing defeat, Hallstrom was challenged to take a closer look at the
other wrecks he had already found in the area.
There was one in particular which caught his attention. In
spite of the potentially hazardous old fishing nets covering it, Hallstrom, from his ship,
'Scorpio', sent his ROV to take a closer look at the gutted, shapeless wreck. All that
seemed to remain was a hollow heap of iron and debris; no bell or bow, and no twice-gashed
starboard side with which to recognise the ship. The remains of the engines and the shafts
at least enabled him to discern head from tail.
Then luck came to the rescue. Someone in the control room
noticed on the video screen what appeared to be a crockery plate wedged into the muddy
bottom. The new ROV had been equipped for just such an occurrence, delicately using its
'arms' to scoop the plate - bearing the name of the Royal Mail Steampacket Company - into
a special basket.
The 'Douro' was found at last!
Days later, the 'Deep Sea Worker' was engaged, bringing up a
load of crockery plates, cups and milk pots all dutifully bearing the ship's name, as well
as wine bottles, portholes and a magnificent pair of bronze dolphins.
A great and memorable moment soon followed when, amidst the
mud, the salvors laid their eyes on literally thousands of golden coins brought up from
the seabed. Luck further came to the fore when it was discovered that the gold was still
closely assembled and there was no scattering.
Two days later, the salvage master estimated a probable - and
previously unheard of - 93% recovery, which included several numbered and un-numbered gold
bars. The treasure was taken to Jersey, under a fair British law, and officially declared
to the appropriate authorities.
A year and a day was the waiting period required under this
law for the releasing of the gold, subject to other claims, by the 'Receiver of Wreck.'
Four months after this period had lapsed, the treasure was auctioned in London by
Christie's-owned Spink and Son, the renowned coin auctioneers. The sale was a triumph. A
large quantity of the coins - among which were many extremely rare Brazilian and
Portuguese coins, some dating to the 1700's - were sold. |